People get freaked out trying to embroider with metallic thread. And understandably so…it shreds, it breaks, it nests more than ‘standard’ thread. But once you get your head around some basic principle of working with the ‘metal stuff’ then you can get fantastic results with a few cautionary steps. In this series of 8 fortnightly blog posts I’ll give you the tips I use to get great results from working with metallic thread. Now I will talk specifically about digital embroidery but the principles are the same what ever machine you use be it a standard sewing machine doing inbuilt stitches or a long arm quilter doing free motion work.
I often think of digital embroidery and regular sewing machines like 19th Century horses which is hilarious as I am one of the most un-equine people on the planet. Your basic sewing machines are like pit ponies; basic workhorses that can labour away on a task without much fuss or fills; a good mid-range sewing machine like the lord of the manor’s hunter; solid, reliable, good looking. You can go up the hierarchy of machines until you reach digital embroidery machines. I think of them like dressage horses, beautiful specialist animals that do the most amazing things that can take your breath away. And just like with horses you need to treat in a special way; they can be particular or indeed fussy about what you put in them, refusing to perform unless they have high quality ‘feed’ and handling. Don’t expect to drive your delicate embroidery machine the same way you can your pit pony sewing machine!
Number 1 Quality of thread
My first
rule of digital embroidery is always quality needles and thread. My first proper experience of digital
embroidery back in 2007 was a painfully slow with constant shredding and
breaking (every 30 seconds) and once I realized that it was to do with cheap
unbranded machine needles and manky old thread that had been kicking around for
years my work transformed.
For metallics I use branded thread like Madeira. Their FS40 has been my go-to thread since the
mid-1990s and I don’t think I have ever been without Gold 4 since 1986. If you are looking for a cheaper option, I
have had good results with the CR40 range; it’s got good colours in addition to
the standard metal colours BUT I personally feel its thinner than the FS40 and
have had issues with pattern fill blocks appearing slightly transparent. I’ll talk through ways to solve that another
time. I use the Sulky metallics when I
can get them but I burn through big reels and its often an issue of getting hold
of them in quantity. I have used other brands including some dodgy chinese brands with mixed results.
I’ll also talk about alternative metallic threads like lurexes and hologram sliver threads in episode 8 of this series
Think about
how old your thread is? Thread will
deteriorate with age and if its left in sunlight. It becomes brittle and frankly only good for
embellishing machines! I have had branded thread snap all the time when it has
been left on a window sill. If your
embroidery is shredding and snapping ask yourself is the thread a problem? Can you run through your design with a
standard rayon on a similar fabric no problem? Does the thread snap more easily
if you pull it between your fingers.
These might indicate that you have a problem with your thread.
For a while I took a hard line that I wouldn’t use anything with an unfamiliar
brand that I had bought on a market stall. That unfair on market stall holders
but as a rule I would always say proceed with caution; only buy small
quantities until you have tested the quality.
In fact I have had some good results with cheap metallics if I was
careful with some of my other stages in stitch out. Also be aware that you might not be able to
get EXACTLY the right colour again if you run out on a project halfway through.
If you are new to digital embroidery invest in some good quality threads. You don’t want to be frustrated by thread
that will easily shred and snap.
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